BUILDING AN ACCESSIBLE HOUSE - THE BUILD CONTINUES - Week 7 Update

Hi everyone

I bet you've all been wondering how this build has been going and I have been meaning to update the blog with where its at right now.  Well we have a Roof! So thats a start.  Its also been waterproof wrapped as we now head into Autumn, so even though its not weather-tight quite yet its still keeping the recent rain off the framing and most of the interior.  Next week the Brick exterior cladding starts, the windows are due, and we are also about to spend time with the electrician deciding on the lights, light switches and power points etc.  I will update a bit more on that further in the blog but first lets do a photo timeline update so you can all go OOH & AAH at it 😀

Photo Timeline

Week One

Week One - Day One - Excavation Starts

Week One - Day 5 - the rib raft floor starts

Week Two 

Week Two - Day 1 - the rib raft framing is down

Week two - Day 3 - the Concrete Slab is done

Week Three

The framing begins:

And Aerial shot taken by our builder showing the frame - it looks so like the plans!

Week Four

Looking at the spot the large sliding doors will go (this is the side of the house)

Looking at the front of the house the lounge windows to the left and the front entrance in the middle

Week Five 

An Aerial view of the trusses for the roof

The scaffolding is up and the roof goes on soon

The front of the house is now starting to look like a house

Week Six 

The roof is done! The waterproof wrap is being done and the
scaffolding will come down soon

Week 6 - Day 5 - the framing for the gib is already
 going into the garage - soon they will start to line the interior

Whats due next?

Well its Autumn here and the weather is starting to settle in so its great that they got the roof on when the weather was better and they will have a more or less dry area to work in.  In the next few weeks they will be pre-wiring the house, starting to put up the battens for the gib (drywall), reinforcing the walls where we want shelving or things hanging from the wall like rails, and obviously the exterior starts to come together.

LifeMark Accessibility and the Electrical Walkthrough

So next week we have the Electrical walkthrough with the Electrician to work out where lights will go, power outlets, heated towel rails and other items.  So the Husband has spent time going through our LifeMark assessment to make sure we have it all in hand and can spend time explaining to the Electrician just WHERE things can go.  

The guidelines are quite specific. For a start, plugs can't be put within 30 cm of the floor. For 'bonus points' plugs should be at a consistent height between 50 and 120 cm from the floor, and for even more points plugs should not be within 50 cm of an internal corner.

Humm... Keeping plugs out of the corners should be fairly easy, but having them all at mid-thigh height in all rooms will be be challenging,

One thing the Husband is keen on is recessed low-intensity lighting in the hall - like what you have on stairs - with the reasoning that we are often up in the night to check in on the boy. The number and placing of these lights has become a bit contentious.  He also worried about the power they would use for awhile - the LED lights are rated at 1W, but the driver losses need to be taken into account. Two 1W lights for 12 hours a day, for a month is about  1kWhr - or 20c of power. per month. Less than a cent a day to not stumble round in the dark every night is well worth while.

Talking of lighting, the location of light switches is also specified in the standard. They should be at the same height as the door handles, Must make sure that the electrician and builder agree about the handle height. We also need to have light-switches at both ends of the corridors, its giving us a small problem as we have three doors entering the end of the hall, so do not have a clear wall space to place the switch on! 

We also discussed including some hard-wired panel heater, which seem like a good idea as they will be low-profile and not obstruct moving a wheelchair around, and avoid having cables over the floor. The downside is we will need to know where the furniture will be to avoid having a heater where we will want to place the bed. It is a tough call, as we tend to have a heater on overnight during winter to help avoid winter snuffles and chills. Not having these also avoids having to decide what wattage heater to install. So a compromise might be to install an extra power point where we might want to hard-wire a heater once we get settled in. 

There is always so much to think about with these things its easy to get overwhelmed!  One thing I still wish we'd considered was removing the wardrobe doors and turning the wardrobe into a recess we can use for 'parking' equipment.  Other families have chosen to do that and it makes sense to have the wheelchair, walker and maybe the standing frame somewhere out of the way.  Of course we are also in the middle of teaching the young man to self transfer to his wheelchair, his walker and possibly the bed.  All this means that the equipment needs to be within easy reach.  No doubt as the house progresses we'll have a clearer idea of all that.

We'll try to update again as the build progresses, thanks for stopping by to view our blog!

Vivien

DRAFT-A-LONG - Drafting a Boys Tshirt

Hi All!

I have decided to practice my new skill of pattern drafting and thought others may find it of use too.  There is plenty of tutorials out there that show you how to draft a pattern from a favourite well fitting tshirt.  But my tutorial is a little different.  Its how to draft a Tshirt using a template of measurements.  This tutorial shows you how to draft a Size 134cm (8-10 years) Boys loose fit tshirt with short sleeves.  I intend to follow up this post with a how to sew and how to adapt the pattern as time allows.  But if you ever wanted to make your son a tshirt and wanted a free pattern well try this!

What you'll need:

• Paper - quite a wide piece you can use lunchwrap like I did or A3 sketch paper or you could use a piece of newspaper or even sellotape together a bunch of printer paper - your choice! It just needs to be wide enough and long enough.
• A long ruler - I used a 40cm long clear ruler but you may need to have a measuring tape for the longer measurements 
• Pen or Pencils - to sketch the lines - up to you if you use different colours for the lines and markers

A Drafting we will go:

Step 1:   

Draw a rectangle on your paper similar to the one in the picture.  Measure 21cm across the top, 47.5cm down one side and the other and close the rectangle with another 21cm line.

Step 2: 

Following the diagram make markers along the top line at 4cm, 9.5cm from the left corner and at 6.5cm and 2cm from the right hand corner.  Down the left hand side make a marker at 2cm, 7.5cm, and 20cm.  On the right hand side place markers at 3cm and 20cm.  Join the two 20cm markers with a line across the rectangle.

Step 3: 

Using the same diagram measure across from the left hand 7.5cm marker measure across a line 9.5cm long and from the top 9.5cm marker measure a 7.5cm line that joins to the previous line.  This will be the rectangle that helps you make the curve for the front neckline. 

Step 4: 

Draw a curve like the one shown in the diagram from the left hand 7.5cm marker to the 9.5cm marker on the top line.  The lines you drew in step 3 should assist you in making the curve.  From the 6.5cm marker on the top line measure down 1.5cm and place a marker.  At the 2cm marker on the top line measure down 3cm and place a marker.  Measure across from the right hand lines 12cm marker and put in a marker.  At the 20cm line measure across 2cm and put a marker draw a line that intersects all those markers from the top line to the 20cm line (the green line in the diagram).  At the 12cm+2cm marker measure across a further 2cm and place a marker.  Using the top 2cm marker the line you drew down and the 2cm marker you just made draw a curve that goes from the 2cm marker to the 20cm marker bending in to meet the 12cm+2cm marker as in the diagram.  In order to make the shoulder line measure across from the left hand top 9.5cm marker down towards the right hand 2cm marker but angled down 2cm insersecting the 1.5cm measurement measured down from the top lines 6.5cm marker.  

Step 5: 

For the final curve (the back neckline) you need to measure down 2cm from the top lines 4cm marker.  Join with a curve the left hand sides 2cm marker and the top lines 9.5cm marker curving under the 2cm marker you just made at 4cm.  Mark the left hand line with "FOLD" this will be the centre fold line when you cut the pattern out.  

Finishing off!

To finish off you can retrace the pattern to make a back and front pattern or when you cut out the pattern just trim off to the lower neckline for the front.

You have now drafted a front and back Tshirt pattern!  This pattern (without the sleeves - which will be in another post) can be used to sew up a singlet for your young man as well.  Stay tuned for Part two - drafting a short sleeve for your tshirt.

thanks for reading my tutorial/DRAFT-A-LONG!

Vivien

Tutorial - Adding Pockets to the Oliver+S Sunny Day Shorts Pattern

I wanted to make up the free 'Sunny Day Shorts' Pattern by Oliver & S but felt it needed some pockets so I decided to modify the pattern & make a tutorial for you all to see how it's done!

Instructions:

What You'll Need

- the pdf of the pattern printed out & sellotaped together (see link above)

- some tracing paper to trace the size you want onto

- felt or marker pens to draw your pattern

- Sellotape if required

- about 40-50cm X 120cm cotton fabric (I used drill)

- pins

- sewing machine

- thread

- 20mm wide elastic (about 60cm)

Tracing your pattern:

Select your size from the printed Sunny Shorts PDF & trace off all pieces in the size you want.

Adding pockets to the traced pattern:

Using just the traced front of the shorts pattern draw a curved line from the shorts pattern top & the side seam. I didn't really measure it I just 'guessed' how long & wide I wanted it. The first curve will be the pocket opening. Slightly away from that curve draw another curve in the shape of a pocket. My rule of thumb was to make it about 5cm away from the first curve at the top. The square grid on the Oliver&S pattern helps to give you a general size. (See the photo for how I did it)

From the traced pattern piece trace the pocket piece only, for the facing draw from the side seam across & down the second curve & back to the side seam. For the pocket pouch trace around the first curve (pocket opening) & across & down the second curve to the side seam. (See photo for pieces)

Cutting out your shorts:

Pin all your pieces to the fabric ensuring you cut out 2 pocket pouches & 2 pocket facings. For the front slash lines to the first curve & fold the piece back so you're able to cut the curve as part of the front. (See photo)

Sewing the shorts:

Pin the pocket pouch to the front shorts piece, matching curved edges right side to right side.  Pin and stitch

Turn out and iron flat.  Top stitch curved edge about 1/2cm away from the edge.

Place the front on the pocket facing piece matching the pocket pouch and pocket facing right sides together. (see photo) pin pocket facing and pocket pouch along outer edge and stitch.

Lay front and pocket flat, pin top of pockets and front at upper edge and side of pockets at side seam.  Baste in place.

Pin & stitch front and back together at side seams as mentioned in the Oliver+S instructions, catching in the pocket sides (you should have this happen easily if you basted as I said in the step above).

Continue following the instructions in the Oliver+S pattern instructions.  You should then end up with a completed shorts and be ready to do the waistband!

Continue to follow the instructions as mentioned in the pattern ensuring you catch the top of the pockets into the waistband (the basting should help) and you should have it looking like the below photo:

Follow the instructions for the waistband and you should have a completed pair of shorts with pockets like mine below!  Hope this helps you to modify the Oliver+S Sunny Day Shorts Pattern.

These are a great easy pair of shorts that fit really well and you can easily whip up lots of them.  If you aren't keen on doing the whole inset pockets like my instructions you could instead make patch pockets using a similar method or extending the shorts leg length and adding side pockets.  If you want me to make up a tutorial for those two options just ask!

Happy Sewing

Vivien

TUTORIAL - Sewing Ottobre 2009-04 #14 "Pistachio Chocolate" - Reversible Top

TUTORIAL - Sewing Ottobre 2009-04 #14
"Pistachio Chocolate" - Reversible Top

As promised heres the first of a series of sewing tutorials on how I went about sewing up the sometimes challenging Ottobre patterns.  Although generally Otto's are very easy and straightforward some patterns can be challenging even for seasoned seamstresses like myself!

This reversible raglan top appeared to be easy, and if you made it without making it reversible it would be!  I found there was a knack to getting the two tops together easily without twisting the sleeves and making it impossible to turn inside out and get right.

So I took photos as I went along so I could recreate the top in the future, and of course provide a tutorial on how I went about sewing it.

I had two lovely one-way stretch cottons that I had pre-washed and shrunk.  I had chosen to make a size 116cm tall for my great niece who at that time was only 4 1/2 years old but very tall! I wanted to make her something warmish for Autum/Winter and as I had found these coordinating cotton knits I thought it would make a lovely reversible sweatshirt for her.

Choosing the Fabrics and Cutting Out

So I needed to make sure the fabric was a good weight and wouldn't be too stretchy and I decided on one-way stretch cotton interlock that I pre-washed and put through the dryer on low so that it would also be pre-shrunk.  I do this for ease of use, the young Mum (my niece) who was going to be giving these to her daughter would need to be able to wash and dry them with minimum fuss so I made sure they could at least go through a dryer!
I didn't take any photos of the construction or cutting out as they were all pretty basic and if you follow the instructions for making up the basic two tops separately you should do fine. Its when you get to combining the two tops together that the instructions can be a bit unclear and confusing!

Joining the tops together - the challenging bit

The best way to do everything is to add the pocket to the side you wish, in my case I did it on the patterned side and omitted putting it on the plain side as well.  I then stitched the raglan armhole seams on both tops. Then you sew up the side seams and sleeve side seams as well. I chose to have the same fabric hood as the top which is different from what the pattern suggests, they instead chose to have the solid hood the same side as the striped top.  But I wanted it to be a solid fabric colour one side and the pattern the other side.  So after making both raglan tops up I then proceeded to stitch both hoods together at the centre seam and then placed them inside each other wrong side to wrong side and overlocked the outer edge together and bound with ribbing as suggested by the instructions.

Once the hoods were stitched together its time to put them
into one of the tops I chose to do the hood into the solid coloured top first.  I put the hood into the top right sides together (solid top right side to solid hood right side - see photo) and pinned then using a small zig-zag stitch on my standard sewing machine I sewed them together.

Then turn top inside out with patterned hood facing you

Place hood and top piece inside the patterned top body right sides together and pin.  Stitch these together around the neckline.  (I chose to overlock afterwards)

This photo shows the two tops overlocked together at the neck/hood neckline, with the patterned top inside the solid top.  You now have your two tops joined together at the neck edge.

You now need to separate your two tops so they are no longer 'inside' each other.  As you can see in this photo they are both pulled out to show their right sides and obviously attached at the neckline.

Now you have the fiddly job of pinning and stitching the cuff/sleeve edges together.  You do this by ensuring the sleeves are end to end on each other and not twisted. You can sort of see by my picture how they need to be attached.  I wish I had a good trick for making sure they are not twisted but I managed to do it wrong at least once and I have made these tops 3 times now!  If you eyeball as you go making sure the seamlines match up and that each sleeve seems to be straight with no twists in them you should be Ok.

This picture gives you a better view of how the sleeves need to be attached together.  I overlocked mine which was a bit fiddly and unfortunately I never took a photo of how I stitched them together on the machine.  The best way is to treat it as a 'flat' seam not a circular one.  Just keep flattening out the two fabrics right side to right side as you pull it through the overlocker (or sewing machine on small zig-zag) until you have a completed sewn together edge.

You need to do both sleeves like this before turning the sleeves right side out by threading one sleeve back over the other.

You should then have one top (e.g. the solid one) inside the other wrong sides together and the hemline should still need finishing like in this picture.

I pinned and overlocked the two edges together to make it easier and then just tucked it over to the solid side and stitched it down with a small zig-zag stitch to finish the hemline.  But its up to you how you finish it off.








And that is it! I hope those pictures and my somewhat unclear instructions are helpful in completing this Ottobre Pattern.  It really does make a lovely fitting top.

Stay tuned for more tutorials coming up in the future!

Cheers, Vivien

Our Toilet Training Journey

Hi All, its been a long time between posts I have noticed and I seem to have gone away from my original intention of using this blog to discuss our communication journey so others might be able to use our experiences to learn too.  However, being a Special Needs Parent, you soon discover everything is just that little bit different from raising a 'normal' child.  Everything in our lives has been a challenge in one way or another, and toilet training has been no different.  We've had great progress that has been setback with surgeries and then illness and finally with us parents just deciding to leave it alone for a bit until other things our son was going through came right first.

Communication = Toileting Triumph

One thing that needed to work in order for toileting to be successful was our sons ability to communicate the need to go.  He seemed to understand he needed to use the potty in the beginning.  We started putting him on the potty when he was 2 years old after advice from a friend who had an autistic grandchild who as a teenager was still not toilet trained.  Back then we never worried about him asking to go to the toilet or even had a communication plan, we just put him on the potty for long periods of time (20 minutes) about 30-60 minutes after he'd had something to eat and drink.  If we got success we made a big fuss about him and celebrated! For awhile we got lots of success and I still sat him on the potty while I went toilet and 'modelled' how it was done.  Then all of a sudden he stopped going on the potty and for a whole month we got no success.  Then one day I decided to try him on the toilet and bingo! he went! It was then I realised all my modelling had given him the idea that was where you went toilet, not on a potty.  So from then onwards he was toileted.  However, our son was getting big, and heavy, but he didn't have good trunk control back then so it was difficult to keep him comfortable on the toilet and safe.  So we opted for morning and night time toileting with the odd lunch stop as well.
When he started at a special preschool (Conductive Education) they started a toileting program with him and it was there we decided he needed to be able to tell us when he needed to go.  So we started with a basic card (you can see the picture we used above) and everytime he was taken to the toilet we would touch the card and say 'Toilet', we hoped he would learn to associate the card with the intention/concept.

Toileting Setback - Hip Dysplasia Surgery

Hip Spica Cast - Part One - 2011

Back in late 2010 when we were all reeling from the Canterbury 7.1 Mag earthquake we also got the news that our son had been walking with a dislocated left leg.  He was then scheduled for hip reconstruction and 3 months in a Hip Spica cast in early 2011.  He underwent very major surgery and ended up in a broomstick hip cast (see picture to the right).  During that time it was very unwieldy to toilet him but we managed it off and on by holding him on the toilet supported at the cast.  We got some modicum of success.  Alas this was a setback for more than just toileting so we abandoned anything formal as we just got on with recovering from both the 2010 & 2011 Earthquakes and his hip surgery.  When he came out of cast in Mid 2011 we again started gently working on his toileting, nothing major just morning and night-times.  Fast forward to summer 2011-12 and I put him in undies and spent a few weeks over the summer holidays trying unsuccessfully to toilet train him.

What were the problems?

We had to accept the fact there were a few problems with this whole toileting process.  Namely the following:

• He had no way of telling us he needed to go toilet
• He couldn't physically get to the toilet himself
• He didn't appear to be aware of his bladder
• He suffered from constipation as a side effect of his surgery

So we had to tackle those as time went on.  These are still issues years later in 2015 we have still not resolved.  He again dislocated another leg, this time the right hip, and needed another hip surgery and 3 months in a hip cast in early 2013. So any progress we may have made with him being aware of his toileting needs were again dashed as he had to get used to going in a nappy all over again!

Hip Spica Cast - Part 2 - November 2013

What Methods Have We Tried?

Over the years we have been given many ideas, methods, theories etc on how best to teach our son to be aware of how to toilet.  From pouring water over his privates as he sits on the toilet, to wearing undies within a nappy, to letting him sit in wet undies in the hopes he won't like how it feels.  But all were failures, he just didn't seem to be aware of needing to go the toilet.  By now we had 99% success with solids on the toilet and he was also using the iPad to request tentatively that he needed to go.  However, getting him to just urinate on the toilet was proving to be a hassle.  We were able to get him sitting comfortably on the toilet, his torso control was good and balance stable.  He was doing lovely standing holding onto a rail by the toilet so we could assist with trousers and nappy down and onto the toilet.  He was still struggling with ongoing constipation but medication was helping with that.  So heres a list of what we've tried and how successful its been or not been:

• 'feel wet' toilet training undies - they just got wet, he never seemed to get it
• reusable nappies (PUL+Microfleece - homemade) - they leaked, he needed changing, he didn't mind being wet
• Undies + scheduled time on the toilet - he would wee in the undies 5 minutes after being taken off the toilet, he never cared if he was wet
• wetting the privates - made him irritable and never made him wee
• running the tap while hes on the toilet - nothing there either
• Putting a tissue in his nappy or a strip of cotton fabric so he would feel wet - didn't bug him
• Undies and then a nappy over the top to catch any wees - similar to previous option - nothing
• Reward Charts and stickers for success - an excellent way of tracking successes but he never understood the concept of the rewards
• Water sensor placed in undies that played a tune when wet - terrified the poor guy!
• Trainer undies with a soaker pad - leaked, he never noticed he was wet 
• Scheduled toilet times - within an hour of a drink - mixed success, he appears to have some bladder control

Where to from here?

Well we're still working on that, scheduled times have been the most successful, along with modelling concepts (e.g. an adult going toilet and explaining while he watches on), and expectation that he will go at specific times.  Its been tricky to work out how soon after a drink or meal he will go toilet and to get the right timing, often he has been or will go quicker than I think.  But then other times I will take him and nothing will happen despite leaving him on toilet for 10 minutes.  But within 5 minutes of coming off the toilet he will go.  I don't believe he has too much awareness of his bladder but he does have awareness of going wees.  He does like the reward of us making a fuss and saying how great he is when he succeeds so thats helpful.

Continuing to model 'I need to go to the toilet' on his iPad has also proven useful.  He is now requesting to go even if hes not successful.  We are 50/50 successful these days.

I read this great blog entry http://bloomwhereheplantsyou.com/2013/01/diy-pull-ups/ about making your own pull-ups using sanitary pads with trainer undies and we are now trying that, undies he has helped choose and a Poise Extra Plus pad put in.  He is given the option of that or a pull-up nappy and he invariably chooses the underwear option.  The big bonus for us so far has been him showing awareness he has gone in the pad.  Everytime he has gone in the pad he has requested to go the toilet straight after so we can change it.  Just tonight he requested to go to the toilet and when placed on it he finally went wees successfully.  We have tried so many different ideas over the years but this fledgling success is promising.  We'll keep you posted on how this all goes. 

If you like us are finding teaching a special needs child how to toilet take heart, you're not alone!

thanks for reading my blog 

Vivien

More Links to help you start AAC Modelling 

Hi All, when we are first starting out with using iPads, Low Tech Choice Boards or other means to get our children to communicate it can be really daunting on 'breaking through' that communication barrier.  We might get success with simple motivating choices but often its like groundhog day with those choices being ALL they will use because they have been successful with them.  However, how do you progress?  How do you get past just requesting set items, like FOOD or DRINK?
Well recently another parent posted links on a Facebook group I am on and I thought I would share those links about Modelling and AAC (Augmentative Communication).  Feel free to ask questions regarding modelling and starting communication with your child.  I will do my best to help you! Remember we're all different and so are our kids!

• https://www.facebook.com/pages/PrAACtically-Speaking/1488812111389361?fref=ts

• http://praacticalaac.org/…/how-i-do-it-encouraging-aac-imp…/

• http://4waystoliteracy.weebly.com/…/2…/using_als_at_home.pdf

• http://www.rockybay.org.au/…/6.2-Teaching-Strategies-Modell…

Cheers, Vivien

How do I get them to Understand Communication?

Hi All

I have been having a lot of thought lately (& discussions) about getting kids past that hurdle of understanding.  Reading my blog might give others the impression it was easy for us, and somewhat miraculous and years down the track it almost seems even to us that it is!
It helps to have a motivated child who is keen on learning and receptive to what they are being given and shown.  Perhaps now at almost 8 years old our son seems to be that way.  However, that wasn't always the case.
He complained, he refused to look, he wouldn't let you redirect his hands, he wouldn't even engage with the iPad originally and certainly didn't have the fine motor skills to manage it.  He has astigmatism and won't use his glasses so his eyesight isn't the best either.  These are all factors that go against his being successful with ANY form of communication.  For years we just got grumps and passive acceptance of whatever he was given, he just learnt to be Ok with whatever was going on and we had a lot of bad behaviour formed out of frustration.  We always gave him Marmite on toast but when he learnt to communicate we learned he actually loved Honey which was why he tended to throw away his toast and not eat it!
At the beginning I totally expected my son to 'see' and understand the pictures he was given, to associate that a picture of cheese was actually cheese.  But somehow he didn't get it, I could tell him that the photo I was showing him was cheese and he would be happy with that, he would accept that it was cheese even though he knew it wasn't edible and totally wasn't cheese, it was just a PHOTO of cheese.  Herein lies the problem, we as parents and adults know that a photo of cheese, is just a photo of cheese, we know that we can go into the fridge and get some cheese and cut a piece (or unwrap a piece) of said cheese.  Your child knows you have cheese somewhere, probably in the fridge and they know a bit of complaining and maybe even fussing at the fridge will make you guess they need or want some cheese.  Maybe every morning tea they get cheese and they look forward to that special time the cheese miraculously arrives in front of them.  However one morning you don't give them cheese you decide on a piece of apple instead.  But they wanted cheese! Ensuing complaining and behaviours start.  We don't get it, they love apple, but suddenly they are upset! If ONLY they could tell us what the problem was, maybe they're sick? tired?  Did we say something wrong? Who knows?
We might try signing, trying to ask lots of questions and add to the kids confusion.
This is the scenario we are faced with, so we maybe with the help of an SLT create a bunch of PCCs (Picture Communication Cards) or PCS.  Usually they are large photos of desirable items, like cheese.  We encourage our kids to look at these photos, we explain they are cheese, we expect them to get it, and we feel defeated after weeks of showing them the photo of cheese, telling them its cheese and they refuse to touch it appropriately in order to get cheese.  When we test them by showing them a picture of socks and a picture of cheese they happily touch the socks photo and expect to get cheese.  We suddenly realise our kids didn't really understand the photos and we wonder if they are as smart as we think they are if they continually choose socks instead of the cheese photo.

Well I am about to shock you...STOP RIGHT THERE!!

I've been there too, its disheartening, its confusing, bewildering and causes you to re-evaluate everything you think, do and expect.  You can completely give up and think your child will never get it.  THEY WILL AND THEY DID....
Something I found was that the SLT's never mentioned the obvious.  Your child DID get what you were trying to get them to do, they DID communicate.  They may not have chosen the right card but they DID CHOOSE.  What you did was Step one in a long process, you got them to understand what was expected in this communication journey.  They learnt that in order to get what they wanted (whatever it was) they had to touch a CARD to get it.  That is enormous! That is communication! That is progress.  So DON'T feel defeated, don't think your kid is stupid, because they are not.  They got what you were trying to show them.  If they do something like touch a card (or an ipad button) they get something they want.  You have just shaped a behaviour.  It doesn't matter what is on the card, or the button, right now they don't really understand whats on that card or button.  They understand the concept of doing something to get something else, and thats what we want.
Phase 1 of PECs training is all about shaping behaviour to get a desired result, all that phase is after is getting the child to hand over a card in order to get something.  It really doesn't matter WHAT is on that card, it could be anything from a word, to a picture to a colour to anything you feel like.  You are teaching them a process first, picture recognition comes later.

We have had to reset before and go backwards and not use cards too, and we still do to some degree use physical objects for choice making.  We will often show a banana and a yoghurt say and get him to choose between them by handing us the one he wants.  Thats still a useful communication tool.  Thats still a choice.  In the early days we often at breakfast had two cards in front of him (FOOD and DRINK) and just out of his reach was his weetbix bowl and a drink of milk.  Both cards sat in front of those items and we would point at the cards and then at the physical options and say slowly and calmly what each item was.  He would reach for the weetbix and we would gently push his hand down to the FOOD card and say 'FOOD'.  He often wouldn't look and would again reach for the bowl and maybe start to vocalise angrily.  We would then hold the card up and say 'FOOD' again and then hold the bowl up and again say 'FOOD'.  He would just continually reach for his bowl and complain getting quite teary.  It took a LONG time to shape behaviour into touching a card and get past the tears and frustration.  Many times we wanted to give up and didn't think he would ever get it.  We have discovered with many things with our son that everything TAKES TIME.  I really wish there was an express train to training but there isn't.  At the beginning don't expect your child to understand the symbols, photos or whatever you are using.  Get them instead to step one, understanding if they want something they need to first do something for you.  Shape that behaviour and you have success.  Eventually you can teach them the point of each card.  You need to first motivate them to communicate and to want to do something for you so you can do something for them.  Find what their motivation is, a favourite toy, a DVD they love, some food or drink they MUST have, a trip to the park.  Whatever it is, you need to say to them 'Well if you want this then you need to do this for me first'.  They will get it quickly, trust me.  But whatever you do it must be a positive and successful experience, don't set yourself and them to fail.  If you are offering them cheese then have it ready to give straight away, no fussing, no going to the fridge, no going to cut it or otherwise.  If you're setting up the environment for success have the object nearby to associate with.  In the case of the park you might drive there in the car and then point at it and a picture in your hand and ask them to touch the card before then getting out of the car and going to the park.  If they don't touch the card you might instead drive off up the road and try again.  Focus on the learning on days your doing that, don't be distracted by other things or the child will learn that the phone ringing or a sibling being involved is all part of the process and will expect the phone to ring before they touch a card and get what they want.  Kids are literal.  They learn process.  If one time they were successful in getting what they wanted but the phone rang in the middle of it or you spoke to their sibling to get the item, you may find they refuse to do the same thing a different day and wait passively or don't engage because they are waiting for the phone to ring or the sibling to arrive to start the whole process.  Try and make it a quiet time with little distraction, I know how easy that sounds when I only have one child, but for the beginning process its what you have to do.  ANY distraction will ruin yours and their success.

Take heart, it does seem a tough road but once you break through you can quickly leave that behind.

GOOD LUCK!

PS> heres a great link discussing Teaching using repetition: http://www.autismmind.com/Teaching_Strategies_srk/Repetition_cnk/

Tutorial - creating an Older Childs Onesie from an Adult Mens Tshirt

Ages ago my son underwent Hip Surgery to correct hip dysplasia in his Right hip/leg.  At the time he was 6 years old and quite big and we thought we'd get away with long 8 year old tshirts.  But alas he was cast quite wide and the large adult nappy he wore wasn't a pretty sight!  So I had to quickly come up with something for him to wear.  It was summer, so he was going to be hot.  He was also going to have to go to school off and on.  I didn't want him looking totally silly.  So what to do?

Make something of course!

So I went to the sales and brought lots of cheap Mens Medium size tshirts and adapted them.  I am sure I am not the only one who has found a need for larger children to wear onesies or rompers.  So as I like to share heres the link to my Tutorial in PDF format:

Older Kids Onesie Tutorial PDF (Google Drive)

The rompers were done slightly differently by placing a pair of older childrens shorts folded up on top of the bottom of the folded Mens Tshirt.  I then cut around the leg area to shape it into shorts.  Overlocked the bottom edges and then turned under to bind the cut edge.  I then sewed snap tape onto each edge and it was done!

TUTORIAL - Making a Tiered Version of Ottobre 3/2012-#28 - Hawaii Flowers dress

Hi All, I had some great fabric I brought called 'Savannah' a lovely cotton with printed bands that just screamed to be made into striped tiers on a girls dress.  Feeling inspired I browsed through all my Ottobre magazines looking for THE pattern.  I even trolled Google and Pinterest.  I eventually felt inspired into using a shirred bodice and tiered skirt pieces.  So I chose to modify the Hawaii Flowers Dress from 3/2012.  As you can see in my photos I had two different colourways for the Savannah fabric, a dusky pink and a lovely sage green.  I decided to use each fabric in the dress. This was made in 128cm size for a 7 year old girl. So heres how I went about doing it:

First I created the pattern from the pattern sheet.
I then made a line on each pattern piece about at the waistband level.  It was kind of arbitrary and I thought - about here.

I didn't show too much of this step - but here is the finished bodice piece. I sewed the left side seam

with the overlocker, did a narrow edge on the top of the bodice and overlocked the bottom of the bodice. I then shirred the bodice with my standard sewing machine. I used the method mentioned in the Ottobre magazine, where you fill a bobbin by hand with shirring elastic and stitch evenly spaced rows along the width of the bodice piece turning at each edge and stitching back along the width an even spacing from the previous row.
(Heres a link to Made by Rae's tutorial on how to do shirring in case you want to see a more visual method than the one in the Otto Magazine - http://www.made-by-rae.com/2013/08/tutorial-shirring-with-elastic-thread/)

I then placed a piece of the green fabric under the bodice piece pattern and cut it to the width of the

bottom of the bodice pieces (the second part under the line I drew).  I cut out one of the front on the fold and one of the back on the fold.  I sewed up the side seams & overlocked both long edges. 

I then created another tier from the pink fabric this time just putting the first tier on top of the pink fabric and choosing to cut it about 5cm wider than the previous strip.  Again I stitched it into a circle and overlocked both long edges.

Both strips were basted with long running stitches along one edge.  I chose the smaller stripe on the fabric to be the bottom of each tier.  I first pinned and sewed the green top tier to the bodice but in retrospect I think its better if you create the skirt tiers first and then at the end gather the skirt top and sew it onto the dress bodice. 

I continued to create alternate tiers each time adding about 5cm to the length of the upper tier on each successive strip.  I also continued to sew up each side seam and overlock both upper and lower long edges.  Then basted with long running stitches, gathered each tier and pinned and sewed to each upper tier.  I alternated colours from green or pink as shown in the photos. 

On the last tier I sewed a small hem which I did after completing the final tier.  It turned out to be a bit shorter than anticipated so I ended up unpicking that hem and adding another pink tier to finish the length.  

The bodice was finished off as per the pattern by making two strips of fabric for the shoulder straps.  I chose to use the stripe of the fabric again as the strip in the centre of the strap.  Both long edges were overlocked then a narrow edge sewn with a standard machine.  The pattern calls for 3 evenly spaced shirred lines to be sewn onto each shoulder strap.  Once done you then stitch the straps to the first shirred line of the bodice top at the marks shown on the pattern.  

That was it!  

It was a simple mod of the pattern to create what ended up being a rather beautiful dress if I do say so myself!